Best places to eat in Kathmandu

Since we're getting ready to leave I thought I should make my obligatory 'best places' post...and since I've practically starved to death here with almost nothing but momos surrounding me at every turn I'll list the few places that have kept me alive and kicking these past few months.

Kotetsu is a sushi bar owned and operated by a local Japanese family. Considering theirs was the first sushi I'd had for nearly four years it was pretty damn good. However, I'd suggest calling ahead to find out when their last delivery of seafood came in from Japan as toward the end of the batch it can get kind of sketchy. Delicious miso soup, amazing tuna rolls, sashimi, endamame, sake - the whole nine yards. Kotetsu is located between the Japanese Embassy and the new American Embassy on Lazimpat, across from Pani Pokhari (not that I expect you to know what that is, but your taxi driver will...). Their number is 01-621-8513. Expect to spend at least $50 for two people. Twice that if you like sake as much as we do.

Him Thai calls itself the 'first Thai food of Kathmandu' but what I'm pretty sure they meant was 'premier Thai food...' (don't hold the bad translations against them...the menu is even worse but is worth deciphering!) Him Thai is also on Lazimpat, near the Bluebird department store. The service is superbly friendly, the food - while not the most incredible Thai I've ever had is by far the best facsimile in this area. The green curries and coconut milk based soups are amazing, and they have tofu! Their number is 4418683 but trust me when I tell you it's much easier to order in person, and their semi-outdoor dining area is casual but cozy in the evenings with candles. The bar inside is cute too. Expect to spend about $20 with bottled Carlsburg beer and dessert for two people.

Roadhouse Pizza is truly wood-fired pizza at it's best - and in a part of the world where 'pizza' can mean a slice of toasted white bread topped with ketchup, chilies, cheese, and the ever-inexplicable maraschino cherry Roadhouse is a dream come true. Roadhouse has three locations, the best of which is easily the one in Bhatbateni (just down the road from a supermarket with the same name.) The other two are in overcrowded Thamel, and Pulchowk. They have an interesting mix of menu offerings besides their famed gigantic and ever-so-inexpensive pizzas including: soups, sandwiches, desserts, burritos, pastas, and more. Their bar is nicely stocked and they also have an espresso machine. Expect to pay about $10 for two large pizzas with fresh gourmet toppings. Try the mixed veg or tuna pizzas. Their phone number is 4426587.

Mike's Breakfast is owned by a midwestern American which means a few things: the food is friendly to the western palate and the menu is diverse. Daily specials include homemade soups, quiches, and juices. They also usually have rainbow trout on the menu which I've not been brave enough to try - not being certain where it actually comes from, and beng privy to the sorry state of the local river system led me to indulge instead in fat vegetarian burritos, toasted sandwiches, and brown rice stir fry. Mike's is situated in the expansive and charming garden of an equally expansive and charming old Newari style home. There's also an art gallery upstairs that has lovely overpriced things to look at. It's virtually impossible for me to tell you just where Mike's is, but most taxi drivers know the name well as it's a tourist favorite. Expect to spend around $20 for two people.

Chez Caroline is Kathmandu's only real French cuisine. It's located in the back of Baber Mahal shopping center, a maze of converted stable buildings left over from an old palace. The rest of Baber Mahal includes high-end shops geared toward wealthy locals and the expat community. Chez Caroline is also a garden restaurant and is one of my absolute favorite places to sit on a stormy day, the atmosphere is just wonderful (assuming there isn't noisy construction going on nearby like the last time we visited). The bistro offers everything from smoked salmon sandwiches and soup to salmon croquettes with mashed potatoes. Of course they have meat and chicken and of course I didn't try any of it, but everything was presented well and looked delicious. Expect to spend $40 for two people, for the best of what's on the menu.

You may be wondering why on earth there is no mention here of a really good traditional momo place; fair question. Truth is, the momos here are not all that fabulous in my opinion and while a great place to indulge in Nepali momos may very well exist, I have yet to find it; and believe me, I've tried. I'm a complete noodle addict. Anything stuffed and steamed and I'm golden. But here the momos tend to be very thick-skinned and either quite bland on the inside or so spicy they hurt - maybe I'm still too accustomed to the western variations on these kinds of things. In any case, truth be told, the best momos I've ever had in my entire existence as a noodle fiend were at Tao, the Chinese restaurant in Ramaiiah that we ordered delivery from twice daily while we were living in Bangalore, India. Go figure.